Buying a Diamond: The 4 Cs

You have likely already realized this, but buying a diamond is a complex process. First, it involves choosing between numerous stones which, unless you are a geologist, probably look the same to the naked eye. Let's face it, most of us do not know the first thing about diamond qualities prior to the special occasion when we decide to buy one. Before we delve into the specifics of diamond selection, it is necessary to note that diamonds are not a good financial investment. Not only are they difficult to resale, but you will also take a significant loss in most cases, especially if you try to sell it to a jeweler, rather than an individual. That being said, as long as you are not buying a diamond with the intention of making a profit, this guide should prove invaluable. There are so many factors to consider when purchasing a diamond. However, the four key factors covered in this article are color, cut, clarity, and carat weight. These factors are often referred to as the "4 Cs."

Color

Color is graded on a scale from “D” to “Z,” with “D” being colorless and diamonds progressively gaining more tint or color as you approach “Z.” Obviously, color is important; however, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between 2-3 color grades. For example, an “I” and a “G” look very similar to the casual observer, even when placed side by side. Furthermore, when viewed from the top, it is virtually impossible to tell the difference. The difference becomes more noticeable when the diamond is viewed from the side; however, within a few color grades, it is still difficult to see the change. Additionally, the color you select will vary based on the ring or jewelry you are setting it in. If the jewelry is white gold or platinum, it becomes necessary to purchase a higher color grade because the tint of the diamond becomes more apparent when set in a white setting. However, if the setting is yellow gold, a diamond with a lower color score can be purchased and still look stunning. For white gold or platinum I recommend an “I” colored (mid-range, near colorless) diamond. This diamond will look amazing in the setting and still manage to keep the cost relatively low – that is, low in terms of diamonds, which is still significant for most of us. If the setting is gold, you could even consider a “K” colored stone, which would lower the price point even more. In the end, color is a matter of preference, and the buyer has to determine whether the increased cost associated with colorless and near-colorless diamonds is warranted.

Cut

Another common quality to consider when choosing the perfect diamond is cut. This is the place where you absolutely must invest. If you are going to prioritize one of the 4 Cs, then cut is the one to choose. Cut plays a key role in the brilliance and light refraction and reflection of the diamond. A poorly cut diamond will appear dull and lack brilliance due to the angle of the facets. Additionally, an ideal cut diamond can help make a lower color grade diamond appear whiter because more light is reflected. Cut grades range from poor/fair, good, very good, to ideal. My recommendation is to always go with an ideal cut diamond. They will cost more, but the investment is well worth it. If necessary, save money on the other 3 Cs in order to capitalize on this quality.

Clarity

Next, you must consider diamond clarity. In many cases, clarity is an area where you can save. Clarity ranges from I3 (included) to FL (flawless). Clarity is based on the number, type, and size of inclusions. When we talk about inclusions, we are referring to the visible imperfections that exist within the diamond. Clarity is always evaluated based on how visible the inclusions are under 10x magnification. Because they are graded under magnification, it is easy to save money on clarity without degrading the overall appearance of your stone. However, that being said, I would stay away from any diamonds in the "I" range (I1, I2, I3), all of which have obvious inclusions under magnification. SI1 and SI2 are likely going to provide you with the best value; however, pay attention to the location of inclusions. Avoid inclusions that are located on the table (the flat portion of the diamond visible from the top). While these stones will be less expensive, a flaw in such a prominent location can negatively impact the overall appearance of your diamond. If you do not mind spending a little more, very slightly included diamonds (VS1 and VS2) provide a nice balance between cost and perfection. Paying for anything above VS1 is unnecessary and will not provide any additional beauty. Just remember to pay attention to the location of inclusions and not just the clarity grade.

Carat

Carat weight is a fairly straight forward evaluation criterion. It simply refers to the weight of the stone, so a 1 carat stone will weight half as much as a 2 carat stone. Although simple in concept, choosing a carat weight is a very personal choice. While I have recommendations for most of the other factors, carat weight is based on personal preference. For some individuals, the size of the stone in their ring is more important than any other factor, so they will sacrifice quality for size, but a smaller beautifully cut stone with the right clarity and color can outshine a much larger poor-quality stone. Additionally, consumers largely favor carat weights that are nice round numbers, such as 1.00 carat or 1.50 carats. With that in mind, if having a round number is not extremely important to you, diamonds that are slightly smaller (e.g. 0.90 versus 1.00) provide significant savings. Additionally, this savings does not impact the aesthetics of the diamond because it is very difficult to visibly distinguish such a small variance in size.

Conclusion

Based on all this information, you will ultimately have to decide which characteristics are most important based on your preferences and budget. However, if you are looking for a nice balance between cost and beauty, you cannot go wrong with the following: "I" colored, ideal cut, VS2 clarity, 0.90 carat diamond (given the popularity of 1.00 carat diamonds). If you want to lower costs even more, you can lower the clarity to SI1. While we have discussed the 4 Cs, there are so many other characteristics to consider when purchasing a diamond, such as the hearts and arrows, the certification, fluorescence, and table size. Because diamonds are such a large and important purchase, I highly encourage you to explore our other diamond articles. You already have taken the first step towards ensuring you get a beautiful diamond that fits your budget, so don't stop there. The more you know before starting your search, the better equipped you will be to navigate the waters of diamond selection and to negotiate with the seller to get the best value.