Diamond Setting

If you just picked out the perfect diamond for yourself, your fiancé, or your spouse, congratulations, but there is still one decision to make. What material should you select for the setting? The most common settings are silver, gold, and platinum. If you choose gold, you then have to decide on yellow gold, white gold, or rose gold, as well as what karat to choose. Jewelry is typically 10 karat, 14 karat, or 18 karat.

Silver

Silver is the most affordable of the metals and it still provides a beautiful look. If affordability is your number one priority, then silver is an attractive choice. However, given the effort and time you invested into selecting the perfect diamond, I would not necessarily recommend silver to set your precious stone. There are two primary reasons. First, silver is less durable than gold. When used in jewelry, silver is typically found in its alloyed state (mixed with another metals). Sterling silver refers to silver that is 92.5% pure and consists of 7.5% alloy metals. It is often annotated as “925.” Additionally, silver is subject to tarnish. This tarnish is the result of the alloys that are mixed with silver to increase its durability. Therefore, sterling silver will tarnish, but pure silver will not. However, pure silver is not suitable for jewelry due to its softness.

Gold

Gold is one of the most commonly selected metals for jewelry. Like silver, it is often mixed with other metals to create an alloy. The amount of gold in the alloy is distinguished by the karat. The lowest gold content you typically find in jewelry is 10-karat gold, which is 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% other metals. Silver and copper are some common metals used in the alloy. Another common karat is 14-karat gold, which consists of 58.3% pure gold. Finally, 18-karat gold is 75% pure gold.

Yellow Gold, White Gold, or Rose Gold

The metals contained in the alloy help determine the color of the gold; therefore, white, yellow, and rose gold will have different alloys. Gold in its natural state is yellow, so the other colors require metals that change the overall color of the alloy. Yellow gold is typically mixed with copper and silver. Similarly rose gold typically also consists of copper and silver, but the copper content is much higher, which is the reason for the red or pink tint. Finally, white gold contains more white metals to offset the natural color of gold. These metals typically consist of palladium, nickel, and zinc. Due to the various metals used in the alloys, some individuals may have allergic reactions to certain alloy compounds contained in gold jewelry.

Rhodium Plating

While yellow gold and rose gold do not require rhodium plating, white gold is typically plated in rhodium to increase the brilliance and color of the jewelry. Rhodium is an expensive metal, much more valuable than gold, that is very hard and resistant to scratching. Thus, white gold will be protected from the rhodium plating, but in time white gold needs to be re-plated. The frequency at which rhodium plating is required will vary, but if you are looking at a ring that you plan to wear daily, then you may need to get it plated every year. Necklaces and jewelry subject to less contact than rings can go longer. Because of the cost of rhodium, plating will be an on-going costs; however, some jewelry stores, such as Jared, offer lifetime service plans that include rhodium plating.

Platinum

Platinum is by far the most premium of the metals discussed in this article. Unlike the other metals, which can slowly lose metal due to minor scratches over time, the scratches on platinum displace the metal (it is moved but not lost from the ring). Additionally, platinum is the purest of the metals discussed, as jewelry made from platinum is typically 90% to 95% platinum. As a result, it is an excellent metal for individuals with allergies due to the high purity. Platinum does not require rhodium plating. Instead, it is simply polished to return its brilliant shine. However, if not polished, platinum still produces a stunning appearance, and it never looses its color. As platinum’s exterior is lightly scratched, it develops an appearance known as “patina.” For all of its great features, the one downside of platinum is cost. It is more expensive than gold; however, due to the many benefits, it is definitely worth considering, especially if you want a white metal that requires minimal care and upkeep to maintain its color.

Conclusion

If low cost is your highest priority, then silver may be an option, but for long-term durability and appearance, I would not recommend silver. Gold is a great option for many, and it is the metal that I will typically choose; however, you must also select the karat. My recommendation is 14-karat gold. It has good durability and is lower in cost than 18-karat gold. If you like white gold, then rhodium plating will be necessary, so consider a jewelry service plan for pieces that you were wear daily. While I personally do not like the matte appearance of platinum after it develops patina, which is why I prefer rhodium-plated white gold, many individuals like the patina look. If you do not mind patina, then platinum is the clear choice. The added cost is well worth the hypoallergenic properties, extreme durability, and its ability to displace (rather than lose) metal content. If you want to return its original luster after it develops patina, then it simply needs to be polished. It will provide the best protection for a diamond or other precious stone because the prongs used to hold the stone in place are stronger, which is why some couples choose to upgrade the head of an engagement ring to platinum.